Green Goddess Dressing


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From Louis XIII to a 1920’s play to Mamie Eisenhower to Tik Tok, this dressing is meant for fame. My version has Greek yogurt, a whole lot of greens, and Serrano pepper kick.

“This retro dressing never went away, but it keeps getting reinvented.” – Maura Judkis, Washing Post

I first remember seeing Green Goddess dressing – the one in the Annie’s bottle, with the goddess with the flowing hair and Zen energy on the label – at health food stores in my college town, Gainesville, Florida. They represented a new hippie way of eating to me, one that introduced me to words like quinoa and seitan, and one where fresh earthy flavors were foregrounded. I assumed that the name was associated with the herbs infused in the dressing, and maybe I sort of thought there was some implication that you’d feel like a goddess if you ate green things. I started thinking about the dressing recently when it was the answer to a question on Jeopardy. Mayim Bialik posed the riddle, “Traditionally this alliterative salad dressing is big on mayonnaise, but a viral TikTok used olive oil & nuts.”

As it turns out, the name doesn’t reference the color of the dressing or the plants it’s derived from. It was created at the Palace Hotel in downtown San Francisco in reference to a popular play in the 1920’s. The hotel is famous for the many actors who have graced its tables, and the place where sitting President Harding passed away. It also claims to be the place where Turkey Tetrazzini was invented, named for the Opera singer Luisa Tetrazzini, one of their many famous guests. While the dressing was born on the West Coast, it started to go national in 1948 when the New York Times published the recipe. Mamie Eisenhower published her version in a women’s magazine in the 1950’s, citing that it was Ike’s favorite; many people erroneously credit her with its invention for this reason. By the 1960’s it was being bottled, and by the 1980’s it often joined ranch and French as an option at salad bars. Today it’s popular in the Southeast as a dipping sauce for fried oysters or other shellfish.

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When George Arliss stayed at the hotel while he played the lead in the 1923 play “The Green Goddess,” Head Chef Phillip Roemer created the dish to honor him. It’s rumored to be based on a dressing served in European kitchens that served Louis XIII – but that version was served over eel. The original recipe relied on mayonnaise as a base and was served over canned artichoke. The hotel’s current version includes ice, pasteurized eggs, whole grain mustard, shallots, capers, chives, spinach, fresh tarragon, parsley, tarragon vinaigrette, salt and pepper, olive oil and lemon juice.

When the play wrapped, Arliss, a white British actor starred in two movies of the same name, playing an Indian maharajah. All of the actors were white and they all faked Indian accents. The Green Goddess was a fictitious Hindu goddess. The story follows a love triangle, but capitalizes on stereotypes of savagery to enhance its narrative. As you can imagine, with each increasing year, it ages more poorly.

As Indian American writer Sasha Khoka shares, “this racist movie from nearly 100 years ago is straight up worse than Apu on the Simpsons.” While we might expect media from 100 years ago to be worse than modern representations, perhaps the real sticking point is how little things have changes. As Khoka intimates in her piece, the story of Green Goddess dressing is oddly like California – the surface feels light, bright, and healthy, but under the surface there’s another story lurking.

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Green Goddess is making a new life for itself since going viral on Tik Tok. It was first shared by Tik Toker Baked by Melissa. Her recipe calls for shallots, garlic, chives, olive oil, lemon juice, rice vinegar, walnuts, cashews, spinach, basil, nutritional yeast, and salt. Notice that the combination of the nuts and nutritional yeast make it feel like there’s cheese in it, but it’s vegan. My version is a combination of hers, and another version. To be honest, that other version is Panera’s recipe, and it’s not vegan. But it’s very healthy and very tasty!

Green Goddess Dressing

Recipe by MauraCourse: sauce, dressing, saladsDifficulty: Easy
Servings

8

servings
Prep time

30

minutes

Ingredients

  • 1 heaping cup fresh spinach leaves

  • 1 heaping cup basil leaves

  • 1 Serrano pepper

  • 1 shallot

  • 4 garlic cloves

  • 1/3 cup green onions (about 3-4, white and green parts, stems removed.) You can substitute chives, if you prefer.

  • 1 1/2 cups non-fat, plain, Greek yogurt

  • 2 TBSP grainy brown mustard

  • the juice of 1 lemon

  • 2 TBSP fresh grated parmesan

Directions

  • Using a blender or food processor, blend all ingredients until smooth.

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