Classic Florida Key Lime Pie


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A perfected Florida tradition with debated origins, this version boasts a salted browned butter graham cracker crust with a light whipped cream topping.

Camilla: You know, Dexter, my whole life I’ve been searching for…

Dexter: The meaning of life?

Camilla: The perfect … Key lime pie. And what do I get when I’m about to croak? F***ing pie crust, Reddi-wip, and green Jell-O…

Dexter: I’ll see what I can do about finding you the perfect Key lime pie.

– Dexter (Season 3, Episode 7)

Key Lime Pie is quintessentially American, and quintessentially Floridian. Few desserts come to mind that are so specifically tied to our cultural associations with a specific state. It’s right up there with beignets in Louisiana or cheesecake in New York. And just like those sweets call to mind images of jazz or bustling delis, Key Lime Pie evokes palm trees swaying, calypso music in the distance, and seagulls overhead. It’s possible that my specific nostalgia is brought on because I was born and raised in Fort Lauderdale, Florida, but I think even one-time tourists who have tasted the delicacy would agree.

Imagine the shockwaves in the Florida culinary world when a controversy arose claiming the recipe was not in fact created in the sunshine state. As Southern Living reports, Stella Parks caused the ripple in her 2018 dessert book, BraveTart, where she claims it was invented in 1931 by the Borden Milk company in … New York City. (…New York City?!?) Sweetened condensed milk is a must for the custard filling in the pie so that part tracks, but for me, the possibility that my state’s pride-and-joy-in-the-form-of-dessert originated in New York is a real downer. Really, New York already has so much! Can’t they leave us our culinary crown jewel?

Parks, it seems, really did her due diligence and I don’t blame her for the claim. Before publishing she had consulted with a Florida historian who couldn’t find a substantiated recipe earlier than 1949. Florida folklore, though, posits that a woman named “Aunt Sally” created the pie, sometime in the 1890’s, for her millionaire boss in Key West. (I, for one, would also like to credit Aunt Sally more than a nameless ad man in 1930’s New York.) The reigning logic was that the condensed milk worked perfectly for the custard since fresh milk may have been harder to acquire in the string of islands, and that it was a twist on a sweet bread sponge fisherman would fashion out of stale Cuban bread, sweetened condensed milk, wild duck eggs, and a squeeze of lime. This has never exactly been substantiated. Imagine that – neither the sponge fisherman nor Aunt Sally took the measures to copyright their recipes in order to monetize them.

My point is, how often are recipes correctly attributed to their originators? How often do recipes truly have only one originator? Is oral history not a better tool to understand the social history of food than published recipes?

According to Food & Wine, David Sloan, author of The Key West Key Lime Cookbook was especially tussled by Parks’ claims. In addition to authoring the Key Lime Cookbook, he runs the Annual Key Lime Festival in Key West, where fairgoers can take part in key lime pie baking class or a key lime pie eating contest. In 2013 he helped stage a record breaking giant key lime pie, which was 8 feet in diameter and required the juice of nearly 6,000 limes – its specially made pan was the size of a pickup truck. Clearly, David Sloan has a vested interest in the answer about the pie’s origin – his life is the Key Lime. A local news outlet quoted Sloan as saying, “someone is trying to take away the Florida Keys’ culture, and I am not going to stand for it!” I’m admittedly half entertained by his response, but equally moved by his passionate plea.

I hope I’ve made my case that Florida deserves credit for Key Lime Pie. Besides, the recipe that Parks claims is the original uses lemons instead of limes – it’s a magic lemon cream pie! Respectfully, New York can have it. The most important thing a Floridian can tell you about key lime pie, besides the fact that it requires limes, is that it can’t be green – the key lime produces a yellow juice, and the pie should be yellow. From there, the choice is yours – standard pastry crust or graham, whipped cream topping or meringue. This recipe, from Smitten Kitchen – who, as I understand it, is a New Yorker! – is my favorite Key Lime Pie recipe of all time. All I’ve done is adapted the graham cracker crust a bit by browning the butter and adding salt; I also offer it the way I like to do whipped cream with brown sugar and a little bit of sour cream. It’s perfect. Everyone loves it. Trust me.

Classic Florida Key Lime Pie

Recipe by Smitten Kitchen, adapted Course: DessertDifficulty: Easy
Servings

8-12

servings
Prep time

30

minutes
Cooking time

20

minutes
Resting Time

4 HRS

Ingredients

  • 1 Salted Browned Butter Graham Cracker Crust

  • Filling
  • 3 egg yolks

  • the zest of 1 lime

  • 14 oz sweetened condensed milk

  • 3/4 cup key lime juice (see note 1)

  • Whipped Cream Topping
  • 8 oz heavy whipping cream

  • 3-4 TBSP brown sugar (to taste)

  • 1/2 tsp vanilla extract

  • (optional) 2 TBSP sour cream (see note 2)

Directions

  • Prepare the salted brown butter graham cracker crust and bake for 10 minutes at 350F.
  • For the Filling
  • Whip eggs yolks and lime zest in a stand mixer until paler in color, about 3-4 minutes
  • Add sweetened condensed milk, mix until blended
  • Use a whisk to mix in the lime juice
  • Bake for 10 minutes at 350F. Filling should be barely set and not at all browned on top. Allow to cool completely before adding whipped cream topping.
  • Whipped Cream Topping
  • Using a stand mixer and whisk attachment, blend on medium high speed with sugar, vanilla, and sour cream. It should take 3-5 minutes to come together. Be careful not to over blend - it could turn into butter! Whipped cream is finished when you see soft peaks that hold when the whisk is turned up, but the edges should still be soft.
  • Spread on cooled pie, and grate more lime zest on top.
  • Chill in the refrigerator for 3-4 hours so the pie can set.

Notes

  • Key limes are different than regular limes. You may be able to find key limes at your local farmer's market. I use bottled key lime juice (Nellie & Joe's Famous Key Lime Juice.) Depending on your region of the country, you may have to buy it online.
  • Sour cream is not necessary for taste or consistency It will make it a bit thicker and add a slight tart taste. I use it to mellow out the sweetness of the whipped cream.
  • The pie should be refrigerated and will stay good for 3-4 days (if it lasts that long!) Freezing is not recommended.
  • Recipe adapted from Smitten Kitchen.

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